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After abundant buildup, Apple has appear its latest slate of emoji this week, and anon iOS users will accept 70 added textable pictures, including “badger,” “abacus,” and “cupcake,” which, by some miracle, already existed.

Somehow, one of those new emojis has already landed in hot water: the bagel. After all, a bagel is not aloof a bagel, Freud ability accept accounting but did not. A bagel is a attribute of … well, we can’t absolutely adjudge what.

Like all emoji, the bagel emoji is a tiny animation representation of its namesake, which is, again, a bagel. It is annular like a bagel and amber like a bagel. It appears to be a apparent bagel, which is not the best affectionate of bagel but additionally not the worst. It is a bare slate of a bagel —arguably, the bagel-iest affectionate of bagel, if not the best visually interesting.

It is depicted broken in half, and dry. Is this a acceptable way to eat a bagel? No. Still, the angel is absolute acknowledged at accomplishing its job, which is to acquaint the abstraction of “bagel.”

Bagel enthusiasts, though, were absolute upset. “Take a attending at this acutely machine-cut blunder with its annealed and bready interior, which couldn’t possibly be adored by a few account in a toaster,” lamented Nikita Richardson at Grub Street. (Redemption is the abandoned acumen a bagel should anytime be toasted, according to accurate bagel originalists; to acknowledgment a beginning bagel is a evidence of what above New York Times aliment analyzer and accepted comestible bear Mimi Sheraton calls a “decline in the ability of bagel making.”)

Richardson was not abandoned in her dismay.

The bagel emoji, tweeted announcer Josh Glancy, is “the best agnostic bagel anytime baked.”

This is true. Generously, let’s say it appears to be a Lender’s bagel, a longtime basic of the freezer aisle. This is not the dis it sounds like: Lender’s was founded by Harry Lender, a Jewish chef who immigrated from Poland amid the apple wars, which is about as “authentic” as bagel origins get. Eventually, he ample out how to benumb the bagels from his bagelry — “New York Bagel Bakery,” in New Haven, Connecticut, and one of the aboriginal bagel aliment alfresco New York City — and by the backward ’50s was distributing them, frozen, to grocery aliment in accoutrements of six.

This action was tweaked and mechanized, and the bagels got softer and sweeter than is acceptable — alarm this the assimilation of the bagel — but this action is additionally what brought bagels into the mainstream. The Lender’s bagel, wrote Matt Yglesias for Slate, was an addition in “the acreage of mediocrity.” If Harry Lender had been a

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